Thursday, December 23, 2010
White Trees
Labels:
beauty,
black birds,
fantasy world,
Finland,
Tampere,
trees
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Christmas Market
There's a small hut in which Santa receives visitors, an octagonal building in which Finnish sausages are cooked over a fire and sold and two places where you can sit down for a cup of coffee and sweets or a meal.
After dark, the decorative lights, fires and the glowing ice sculpture make the market feel very cozy and festive even when it is very cold.
Here's a video of some university students (note the white caps) singing a Christmas song in Finnish:
Bonus photos:
Labels:
Bratwurst,
Christmas,
Finland,
ginger cookies,
ice sculpture,
Joulu,
market,
Piparkakut,
Tampere,
Weihnachtsmarkt
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
The Darkness and The Light
People have asked how it is to live in Finland during the dark time of the year. I have not asked the rest of my family about their feelings, so I'll just speak for myself.
As I write this, it is December 7, 2010. While winter days are fairly short in Wisconsin, they are not as short as they are here. The sun rose today at around 9:30am and will set at approximately 3:00pm, with the days continuing to get shorter until the winter equinox. If we lived farther north in Finland, we would be seeing even less sunshine.
Part of me relishes the cozy feeling of being warm and inside when it is dark and snowy outside, but if we were to live here permanently, the darkness would get to me. Not only is the sun short-lived at this time of year, it is also in hiding behind the thick, gray clouds that seem anchored above us almost constantly.
We've been told by many Finns that the darkness is easier to handle after snow is on the ground, as the snow reflects light. Also, Finns make sure to light up the night at this time of year. Tampere turns on its decorative lights in November, and the Independence Day (December 6) celebration features flames and fireworks - both good for warding off the dark.
The gym Bryan and I belong to (Go Go, if anyone in Tampere cares to know), has an awesome massage chair set up by a sun lamp, and while I've never used one in the states, I have sat by the lamp several times just to get some sun-like light on these dark days.
When we do see sunshine, it is such a gift, and it calls me outside, making me feel giddy and child-like in my excitement.
Remember that the flip side to this darkness is extreme lightness during the summer. Finns take full advantage of the long days, many of them staying up into the wee hours, grilling and spending time with family and friends.
It is easier to deal with the darkness when I remember that it is part of what makes our time in Finland special and different from our life back in Wisconsin. We can head outside into the snow to walk or go sledding, or we can stay cozy, indoors drinking warm coffee or Glögi (warm berry drink) with our books, board games and the TV. Also, taking a sauna is relaxing any time of year, but it takes the edge of a dark winter day, for sure. If you are thinking of coming to Finland in the winter, don't let the darkness keep you away - we will have fun at any time of the year.
Independence Day in Finland
Brooke and I enjoyed the day alone, as Bryan and Analeise were in Germany. One part of the afternoon was spent at the city's largest cemetery. As is common on other special holidays, people light candles and place them at the graves of their loved ones. Besides that, it is part of the Independence Day tradition for university students to form a procession from the University of Tampere's main building to the veterans' area of the cemetery to pay respect to those fallen in war. Brooke and I saw the procession from a distance but did not come upon the university students in the cemetery when we visited. The candles looked lovely in the snow.
We headed home to watch the annual Indpendence Day ball on TV. Finland's president, Tarja Halonen, and her husband shook hands with hundreds and hundreds of guests while we ate the little cakes I'd bought for the day.
Bonus photos
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
One day in Stockholm
Before our visit this time, Bryan looked in a Lonely Planet guide, which tipped us off not only to the path we walked through Old Town, but also to what was one of our best lunches, ever. The Cafe Saturnus is not in Old Town. It's near the Ostermalm neighborhood and is a French-style cafe owned by a couple who worked in several restaurants before buying this place several years ago. They have three children and call the restaurant their fourth. Our experience there was fairly magical, so it's hard for me to write rationally about it.
For dessert, we split one of Cafe Saturnus' very popular and very large cinnamon rolls and a piece of perfectly-made, rich and dark brown chocolate cake.
The cafe is not entirely easy to find. The restaurant's only sign is the one on the window, and it's on a side street, but if you have time, make an excuse to find this place. If you go, know that you order at the counter and are then served at your table.
We had been a bit grumpy before our meal, but as the food arrived, and we started to eat, we were transformed into our happier selves and sat together, talking and laughing and drinking in the colorful, elegant atmosphere. We left the cafe and walked, giggling in the sunshine, to the lovely park that houses the National Library of Sweden.
Gamal Stan is Stockholm's Old Town and is heavily tourist-ed, but don't let that stop you from going. The old buildings (starting from medieval times) are very close to one another, forming narrow streets and foot paths that go past restaurants, shops and galleries. The colors of the walls are worth the visit for me, as they impart a memorable warmth. Many of them are what I now think of as "Swedish Yellow," and they have a special charm, especially on a sunny day.
Sweden's oldest continuously operating bakery is located at Järntorget 83. Open since 1785, Sundberg's Konditori serves their hot chocolate in large porcelain cups with a generous serving of whipped cream on the side. The raspberry tarts were perfectly prepared and contained the small surprise of a layer of dark chocolate under the berries.
Links:
Cafe Saturnus
http://www.cafesaturnus.se/index.html
Only in Swedish, this link will at least give you the address and show you the location on a simplistic map. There is a link to their blog there, but when I checked, there was only one post, which contained a photo of their deserving-ly famous cinnamon rolls and a cappuccino. The cappuccino I had there was terrific, by the way, so I'd recommend the coffee.
The National Library of Sweden
http://www.kb.se/english/
If you are a library enthusiast, don't miss a visit to this library. We only peeked in here, but I would love to go back. The vast majority of their materials are available only for reading on-site, and it is a well-used resource, being very busy the day we were there. According to their website, the library "has been collecting virtually everything printed in Sweden or in Swedish since 1661." It's situated by a lovely, large park and would serve as a restful break if you are otherwise busily visiting the more touristy areas of Stockholm.
Artist, Cilla Ramnek
http://www.cillaramnek.blogspot.com/
Analeise's favorite store
http://indiska.com/
Indiska is a Swedish fashion/housewares store with Indian and other Asian influences that Analeise first found in Tampere, Finland. Lucky for her, there's one just up the street from our apartment.
Bonus Photos:
Quotes from Swedish author August Strindberg's work are a permanent part of a pedestrian section of Drottninggattan (Queen Street).
Labels:
Gamal Stan,
Saturnus,
Stockholm,
Swedish Yellow
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